CENTRE FOR PERMANENT MAKEUP, ESTABLISHED 2006

At the Centre for Permanent Makeup, the owner, Maureen Williams, received certification in Vancouver, British Columbia, for Beginner & Advanced (scar & areola) Micropigmentation, Feathering, Tattoo Removal and Dry Needling (brown spot, wrinkle and mole removal).  In 2009, training in the use of the nouveau contour digital machine was added.  In addition, First Aid and CPR C with AED are current.  This training exceeds by 50% the number of class room hours recommended by the Canadian Alliance of Micropigmentation Artists and American associations.

In 2006, Maureen established her business in British Columbia where micropigmentation aka permanent makeup has more of a history than in any other province. Women are very interested in a natural look and do not want to waste time and money shopping for and applying cosmetics. 

Rather than restricting practical work to supervising students, the owner continues to hone her skills by offering micropigmentation services, thus ensuring that she is up to date on best practices, safety issues, risks and hazards, the performance of different pigment brands and equipment, legislation and evolving trends.  

She is an International Associate Member of the American Academy of Micropigmentation (AAM).

"Originally, (in the USA) only board certified ophthalmologists were allowed to perform permanent makeup.  Eventually, other medical professionals were carrying out micropigmentation and, by the end of the eighties, many other professions with variable education and training were involved in the practice.  Hence, the need for organizations to protect the public safety became evident" (AAM).

The two most high profile North American organizations are the American Academy of Micropigmentation & the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals (SPCP).   The AAM tests oral, written and practical knowledge with a two day examination.  For the SPCP, only the agreement to abide by their Code of Ethics is necessary to become a member.

The AAM Board of Directors includes:Chairman of the Board, Charles Zwerling, MD, FACS; President, Linda Dixon, MD and Vice-President, Kristanne Matzek, MD. 

The AAM Medical & Esthetic Advisory Board is made up of: Melody Corkhill, RN; Mitchell Goldman, MD; Maurice Mommaerts, MD, DMD, PhD and Norman Goldstein, MD.

The SPCP offers the optional CPCP designation and its Board of Directors includes:  Marilyn Rustand, CPCP; Shannon Zickefoose, CPCP; Marilyn Jones, CPCP; Dawn Marrero, CPCP; Yolanda Moore, CPCP and April Meese, CPCP.

The SPCP Medical Advisory Board members are:  Rox Anderson, MD; Roy G. Geronemus, MD; Marjorie Grimm, CPCP and Judy Culp, CPCP.

When asked for comments on the American trade associations,  Health Inspector Christian Lapensee, City of Ottawa, stated:  “the AAM is the most professional micropigmentation organization that I have seen to date (Oct 6/11)".

Permanent makeup is the term most often used in Canada to refer to the implanting of pigments into the dermal layer of the skin for the purpose of enhancing facial features, camouflaging scars and restoring areolas.  The methodology is similar to tattooing with the exception of the purpose, location, pigments and machines being used as well as the process of removal. 

Tattoo pigments are permanent although they fade over time.  Removal is expensive and difficult.  A dual coil or rotary machine is used to implant the ink. 

Permanent makeup, a misnomer, refers to the fact that the daily application of makeup is no longer required.  The pigments are not permanent, but rather last for 3 - 5 years.  Pigment life cycle is dependent on the machine used, brand of pigment, life style  and quality of after care.  The equipment is rotary or digital and small areas can be camouflaged or removed.

Brow, eye liner and lip colour preferences change over time.  Using micropigmentation or permanent makeup rather than tattoo inks ensures that an individual has the opportunity to take advantage of new trends in colour and shape.

Background

“In 1985, the word ‘micropigmentation’ was created by Drs. Zwerling and Christensen to describe a technique of placing pigment in(to) skin utilizing a microscope for exact placement.  (This was) preceded by the term ’blepharopigmentation’ introduced by Dr. Angres circa 1984 to describe placement of pigment into lash line surgically.   

Micropigmentation is a term accepted worldwide to include pigment placement into the dermis of the skin for enhancement, correction or protection, but does not include procedures intended to damage the skin as in some definitions of ’tattoo’ which include intentional scarring.  Micropigmentation also differs from traditional tattooing in location and purpose.

Micropigmentation does not infer duration of effect such as permanent makeup or permanent cosmetics.  The term ‘permanent’ makeup is not allowed in Australia. Many countries have adopted (the term) ‘semi-permanent’ makeup for eyeliner, brows and lip color. Further, micropigmentation is rarely done on the body except for medical indications such as areola restoration or scar camouflage (Source:  American Academy of Micropigmentation).“

Creating brows, eye or lip liner or full lips is often a two stage process composed of the consultation and initial procedure followed by a touch-up 6 weeks later.  With full lip procedures, on occasion, two touch-ups may be required.

To protect the investment, clients are encouraged to refresh the colour every couple years.  The refresh fee is lower than the original, regular fees.

Sensitivity to discomfort is often heightened during a period, so clients are encouraged to book their appointment with the foregoing in mind.  For client comfort, a topical numbing cream is applied prior to and during the procedure. 

At the Centre for Permanent Makeup, we use pigments that are safe for all skin types.

Both are considered synthetic and non-toxic (not related to a toxin).

Organic pigments are brighter, less stable, less opaque, water soluble and fade much faster than inorganic.  They are labelled organic because they may have any or most likely have all of the following:  carbon, hydrogen, oxygen and nitrogen.  The organic pigments are coated with a chemical compound, usually alumina, to slow down fading. 

Inorganic:  Less intense in colour, more stable, more opaque, insoluble and last much longer than organics, inorganics are made from ores, most often iron oxide. 

Pigments are made in powder form and then liquified using isopropyl alcohol, glycerin, distilled water and sometimes other botanicals.  The liquid pigment is antiseptic (cannot cause infection).

Ophthalmologist, Charles S. Zwerling, MD, who coined the term micropigmentation (the process of implanting permanent makeup) and is Chairman of the non-profit American Academy of Micropigmentation (AAM) in Goldsboro, N.C. says that pigments, like iron oxide, rarely cause allergic reactions.

"Iron oxide has been shown to be the safest pigment.  Anything that is vegetable based, organic or natural is the most risky.  It's the natural products in vegetables and herbs that can cause horrible allergic reactions."

Permanent makeup artists must follow the business procedures identified by their provincial government.  In Ontario, best practices are detailed in the document Best Practices for Personal Services Settings, January 2009.  

The inks are under the jurisdiction of Health Canada and, if manufactured in the USA, by the Food & Drug Administration as well.   Most inks sold in Canada have an iron oxide base. 

Pre-treatment instructions are provided to clients.  Prior to any work being performed, individuals complete a medical history form which the technician will then review to ensure no contraindications are indicated.  The micropigmentation artist works with sterilized, single use, disposable needles, gauze pads, q-tips and pigment caps following cleaning, sterilization and disinfection processes according to provincial regulations.  Post-care direction is communicated orally and in writing.  Ink is not re-used, rather any remaining after a procedure is discarded.  

A contraindication is a condition or factor that either renders a medical treatment inadvisable under any circumstances or increases the risks involved in carrying out a medical procedure:

• hemophiliac
• diabetic on the needle

A consultation and treatment may take 1 1/2 to 3 hours depending on the procedure being performed.  A touch-up takes less time.  Duration is influenced by the time taken by the client to decide on color and shape; the application of topical anesthetics which may require a wait time of 25 - 30 minutes; and the service being performed (lips, eyeliner, eyebrows or camouflage).

No one wants the same shade of lips or brows forever. The pigment is implanted in the dermal layer of the skin with results lasting 3 - 5 years depending on the machine, pigment, quality of aftercare and the client’s skin and lifestyle.  Sun exposure, tanning salons, swimming in chemically treated pools, hot tubs, laser resurfacing, microdermabrasion, alpha hydroxy acids and Retin A can impact the length of time the pigment will last.  Clients are encouraged to apply sun protection and avoid pigmented areas when using exfoliation products or tools.  With fading, the client can take advantage of new trends in colour and shape. 

Best practices:  Don’t wait for the pigment to fade – have the colours refreshed every couple years.  

A lip procedure may stimulate a cold sore or blister which could remove part or all of the newly applied pigment.  Anyone who has ever had a cold sore or blister should take preventive action.  Valtrex, a prescription medication, ingested 2 days prior to and 4 days after a treatment will avert this complication.  A non-prescription medication, Abreva, available at pharmacies may prove to be effective. 

Here at the Centre for Permanent Makeup, we have two goals:   enhancing and balancing existing brows; and, analysing facial features to confirm if the existing brow design and colour complements the face shape, hair and complexion and if not determining the best brow shape and colour for the client.

The client will then review the recommended shape and colours.  Final approval rests with the client.

Blending or shading offers an edgy, dramatic look and entails filling in the brows with pigment.   Feathering (hair strokes) involves using pigment to create strokes that look like real hair.  The result is a subtle and natural look. 

Regardless of the technique, clients are encouraged to allow their natural brow hairs to grow in the pigmented area and to only remove the hair above and below the new brows. 

Clients have to be at least 19.

It is important to avoid saunas, facials, steam baths, activities that will result in extreme sweating, tanning salons, sun and chlorinated or salt water pools for a minimum of a week and preferably two weeks after a procedure.